Pick Your Own New Jersey-Raised Turkey
For Thanksgiving . . .Or Not!

In contrast, commercial farmers (like the Hinck Turkey Farm), are the remaining bastion of traditional New Jersey agriculture. Unlike turkey ranchers in the Midwest who free-range raise their turkeys in great fields, Hinck’s raises its turkeys indoors: 4,000 to 5,000 turkeys per barn. This way the feed is controlled, sanitation and hygiene programs can be carried out effectively (at slaughter time, for example, the flock is inspected bird-by-bird), and the animals are protected from airborne bacteria and viruses and diseases carried by migratory birds. Any of these sources of disease can travel through a farm quickly and decimate the flock. Inside, too, the flock is protected from the impact of both four- and two-legged marauding animals. Which explains the attitude of commercial growers regarding tours, of course. Longo told me that even though they chaperone the school tours closely, turkeys have actually been stolen.

Hinck’s raises turkeys in several localities. They operate four stores which Bob describes as Hinck’s "face," in which they provide sit-down dining and deli lunches, as well as takeout rotisserie turkeys along with twenty-six different salads, pies, breads, and other homemade food specialties, plus novelty items like quill pens and Indian headdresses. There are stores in Wall Township, Glendola, and Ocean Township. Each store, Bob told me, goes through as many as 100 turkey breasts a week.

Hubert Ashley Turkey Farm in Morris County -- Hillside Avenue, Flanders, NJ (973-584-7578) Larry Ashley now operates the family farm his father started in 1948. The Ashley’s grow produce as well as about 6,000 turkeys for Thanksgiving. These are sold in their store which is open every day but Christmas and New Year’s Day. Thanksgiving Day, Ashley closes at 1 pm. The store also sells soups, salads, pies, and all kinds of turkey products. The Ashley farm sponsors tours for school children during the early part of the year. Ashley told me they won’t particularly stop you from wandering around, but guided tours for the public are absolutely out of the question. They are simply too busy. In fact, they may have to stop taking orders for turkeys after the middle of the week before Thanksgiving.

Most of us cook whole turkeys infrequently -- if at all. The thought of roasting a 25-pound bird for the first time, with company coming no less, can be as blood chilling as a scream in a 1950’s horror film. Happily, there is help to be had. Local restaurants, delis and specialty food stores offer Thanksgiving packages by the person or will sell you a fully cooked turkey with the trimmings. Call your favorite local establishment. If they don’t do it, they’ll probably know someplace that does. Choices range from the elegant Frenchtown Inn to the sublime Jack Cooper’s Celebrity Deli (a shameless plug, I know) and beyond. If worse comes to worst, you can always dine out. Larrison’s comes to mind . . .

As for Max and me . . . well, Max’s mother and I have hosted Thanksgiving dinner for our families and friends (usually a crowd of about 40 people) every year since 1976. This year we’re so embarrassed by my failure to find a turkey farm to visit that we are abandoning Thanksgiving in New Jersey altogether. We leave for Paris on Thursday, November 21st. So . . . a Day Tripper-and-a-Half coming soon -- "What You Will Love In Paris (With or Without Kids)!"

If you are in Paris over Thanksgiving, say hello. I’ll be the bearded guy with closely cropped hair trying to figure out at what station I should get off the Metro. Max will be the eight-year-old blond kid pushing the buttons on the great Metro Map of Paris lighting the proper route. That’s his 17-year-old sister, Ria standing behind him, rolling her eyes and telling him to quit fooling around.

Say "Bonjour," Max. Say, "Bonjour," Ria. Say, "C’est moi, le Jour-Trippeur!"