Capecod

I've been going to "The Cape" or Cape Cod for years. My sister married a fellow from the Boston area whose family owned a house on a pond in Mashpee near Sandwich on the lower Cape. Because there are a lot of fresh water ponds on the Cape, some people never visit the ocean or the bay which is all around them. I am not one of them, however.

Accessing the water has always been the goal (and I don't mean the beach!). This can mean towing a boat over 400 miles back and forth from North Jersey. Originally there was a dock at the house on the pond. In recent years the boat has gotten bigger -- a 23 foot Pursuit cuddy cabin, in fact -- so I've left it at a marina or stayed at a hotel with moorings. This year the boat was at Fiddlers Cove Marina in Falmouth on Buzzards Bay a few miles north of Woods Hole.

The ocean to the south for the most part and the bay to the north are spectacular resources. Nantucket is 35 miles out to sea south of Hyannis. Martha's Vineyard where the Clintons have been vacationing for the last four years is just four miles south of Falmouth and the ferries run all day. It's possible to park in a lot and take the bus to the ferry and visit the Vineyard for a short day trip. There is also an evening tour of the harbor complete with a spectacular sunset.

Blue fishing and tuna fishing were in full swing this August while I was there. The most improved fishing is clearly striper fishing. My closest Jersey shore fishing buddies regularly travel to this area or to Rhode Island to fly fish for striped bass in the spring or fall. In the warmest months, the fish head for deeper, cooler water. In May they can be found by the millions in the Hudson River. Charter boats are available from the inner harbor at Falmouth. For fly fishing, try the Orvis store and ask for David Tracy.

Sunset sailing tours are available off of Nantucket and there are beaches which can only be accessed by boat. This is a way to get a little seclusion on the beach or a reason for the whole family to come along. There are floating communities in Woods Hole harbor with floating parties which are known to go on for days.

With all this, this year I had the best adventure ever on the water here on the Cape.

It was a rainy miserable day. The kids needed something to do. I had never been to "P" town or Provincetown at the far end of Cape Cod or the upper Cape.

It's quite a drive up Route 6, but you pass through the best parts of the Cape -- Brewster, Orleans, and Wellfleet to the north and Chatham to the south. We finally arrive in "P" Town not quite sure what we'll do. Traffic is horrific. We finally find parking near the pier. Despite the rain the boats are going out. The whales have been feeding every day for a month. They guarantee that we will not be disappointed. We buy our tickets on the spot, no reservations, no planning, "no nothing" as my mother would say, and we are underway aboard the Prince Of Whales. All whale watching boats leave Provincetown from MacMillan and Fisherman's Wharf in the town center.

Our on-board picnic includes hot dogs, grilled cheese sandwiches, nachos, coffee, and sodas. Cocktails are available and to be encouraged on a cold and rainy day on the North Atlantic.

In About a hour we arrive at the feeding grounds. I yell "THAR SHE BLOWS!!!" I always wanted to do that. Five or six whales were spouting water within a mile of the boat -- an incredible site all by itself. We slow down and approach a feeding group, a mother and calf; we come as close as 20 feet. "Ohhhhh!!!" yells everyone as the first whale breaks the surface with its mouth wide open. "Whoaaaaaa!!!" is heard all around as the whale's tail shoots straight out of the water splashing it down to disorient the bait fish or "lunch" as it's known to the whales. Our guide seems to know each whale and its individual habits. Through familiarity or schtick he gives each one its own personality. We move to another group of whales and then another. Then it's time to head in.

I've seen some big fish in the past but nothing like this. Some 60 people were standing in the pouring rain mesmerized by these beautiful mammals. My kids could not believe it. My wife and I were thrilled for them and for our own memories.

All the whales we saw that day were humpbacks. Humpbacks and fin whales are regularly seen from April to October. Whale watching for tourists started on the East coast in 1975. Whales can also be watched off Long Island and Maine and probably other locations including New Jersey. Visit the Cape May Whale Watch and Research Center.

We arrived back in town and walked through the crowded and narrow streets visiting many of the very touristy shops. Finally we stopped for dinner at the Pepe's Wharf (371 Commercial Street (phone) 508-487-0670), just about the finest sea food restaurant ever.

With the children fast asleep in the back of the Suburban we started back to Falmouth.

By Bill Frankel
bill@lcgroup.com

For more information, check out Cape May Whale Watcher.

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